Neem begun

Avijit Sengupta. Noida/Kolkata

Azadirachta indica, Neem (Hindi), Limba(Gujarati), Veepa maram(Irula), Bevu/ Kirubevu, Turakabevu(Kannada), Ayurveppu, Nimbam, Ariyaveppu, Kaippanveppu, Veppu, Vembu(Malayalam), Nimbay(Marathi), Vembu(Tamil), Vepa(Telugu)

Bitter leaves. Small with regular toothed edges

Season: The tree is perinneal. But fresh, almost pink leaves that grow in spring are the ones that make it to the table

Source: Found both in the wild and widely cultivated for both its shade and its medicinal property

Neem pata/ neem leaves
Begun/ eggplant cubed
Sorisa tel/ mustard oil
Sorisa/ mustard seeds
Holud/ turmeric
Labana/ salt
Cheeni/ sugar

Heat mustard oil to a smoking point in a wok, reduce the heat and temper with mustard seeds. Slide in the eggplant and season with salt, sugar and a pinch of turmeric powder. Cover the wok, turn down the heat and let the eggplants soften. Don’t cook to a mush. In this time wash the neem leaves, discard any old leaves that might have snuck in and toss into the eggplant once they are nearly done. Once again on a high flame let the water from the eggplant and the leaves evaporate. Neem bugun is served dry. The tradition in upper caste Bengali dining is to serve the bitter preparations first so neem begun is usually served as the first course when it is made during spring. Known for its medicinal use this preparation in other variations is used to stregthen immunity.

Ja Myrdoh and Climbing Perch

Pritam. Shillong. Meghalaya.

Houttuynia cordata. Also known as fish mint, fish leaf, rainbow plant, chameleon plant, heart leaf,  fish wort, chinese lizard tail, or bishop’s weed. Duribok (Garo)

Fishy smell. Medium sized, soft peepal-like leaf.

Season: Summer and early monsoon

Source: Found both in the wild and cultivated as an edible green

Other uses: Blood purifier, digestion

Ja Myrdoh
Kawai Fish/ climber perch
Lasun/ garlic finely chopped
Pyaaz/ onion finely chopped
Haldi/ turmeric
Namak/ salt

1. Wash the leaves thoroughly and remove the tougher ends of the stems.
2. Remove the scales of the fish and the entrails by inserting a sharp pointed knife through the mouth.
3. Heat a pan and add oil. Saute onions and garlic in the hot oil until they lose their rawness. Season with haldi and salt
4. Add the fish, stir it so that it is coated in the onion and garlic. Cook until the fish is nearly done
5. Add the Ja Myrdoh leaves. They’ll turn dark as they cook.
6. Remove from heat. Serve with steamed rice.

Daata Shak

Stem Amaranth. Amaranthus Lividus

Nian’s Cooking Diary (Youtube Channel). Bengal

Daata Shaak leaves
Onions sliced
Garlic ground
Shrimp chopped
Water
Dried red chillies
Green chillies
Tumeric
Salt
Oil

Separate the leaves from the stems and wash well. Splutter red chillies in oil and slide in onions. Saute until onions are pale in colour. Add garlic paste, shrimp, tumeric and salt. Cook for two minutes. Add the greens and mix well. Cook without a lid until the greens release their water. Add green chilly before done. Let the water dry up and serve with rice.

Kochu with fish head

Tapioca leaves

Daffy. Recipe from Guwahati, Assam.

Baby tapioca leaves (before they grow to their full size the leaves are rolled)
Tomato
Black pepper
Fish head
Oil

Boil the leaves. Uncooked leaves tend to cause itchiness in the throat. Make a paste of tomato and season with black pepper and salt and fry well. Fry fish head separately and add both the leaves and the fish head to the curry. Serve with rice.